R&D Manager Europe at The Woolmark Company, Birgit Gahlen, and Head of Sales at Weichert Agencies, Stefan Krause, share insights on the latest wool innovations, performance, and circularity in textiles.

Wool is one of the world’s oldest textile fibers, but as Trend Forum jury members you have both been closely involved in evaluating the latest developments. What stands out to you right now in terms of wool innovation?

Birgit Gahlen: Wool has made major progress in easy-care performance. Machine-washable finishes are now well established, which makes wool more accessible for everyday use. From a performance perspective, wool is particularly well suited for stop-and-go sports, where sweating and cooling alternate, due to its dynamic breathability performance. It releases vapor and adapts to body temperature. That makes it very effective next to the skin. At the same time, we increasingly see wool becoming a very important ingredient in technical fabrics, enhancing performance in a natural way by providing durability and elasticity.

Stefan Krause: From my perspective, wool blends were one of the most dominant themes. We saw a lot of wool combined with other fibers to enhance durability and stability, often through double knits or double weaves. These constructions allow wool to sit next to the skin, with another fiber on the outside to handle abrasion. This is a combination that delivers both on comfort and longevity.

Alongside this, recycling and circularity were also recurring themes.

On that note, how is wool fitting into the circularity conversation these days? And what trade-offs are being discussed around sustainability?

Birgit Gahlen: Wool recycling has become a central topic. Wool is well suited for mechanical recycling, and many suppliers and manufacturers across the value chain are actively working on this. There is clear momentum, from fabric producers to brands. At the same time, perception remains a challenge. Some consumers still hold outdated perceptions of wool, but clearly these are a legacy of the past. Today wool fabrics are so fine that they are often chosen precisely for their softness against the skin, or do not fully understand its ability to regulate temperature, instead, wool has this unique natural ability of keeping the body warm in winter and cool in summer. Communication remains important, especially around modern easy-care treatments and proper use.

Stefan Krause: What is especially interesting is how recycled wool and cashmere are now being used in insulation, where shorter fiber lengths still perform well. Both pre-consumer and post-consumer waste are increasingly part of this discussion. Production waste can be recycled and reintroduced into new products, and post-consumer garments can follow the same path, which brings circularity into practical and affordable applications.

Durability is another key topic. Pure wool can be prone to wear over time, such as holes forming in lightweight jerseys, but blends and reinforcements can significantly extend product life. And from a sourcing perspective, wool production is more geographically balanced, with strong expertise in Europe compared with synthetic fibers, which are largely produced in Asia.

Were you able to identify any specific material trends that you can highlight?

Birgit Gahlen: Three trends stood out clearly: the first is innovation around short fibers, as Stefan mentions, which is enabled by new spinning and knitting technologies. Wool can now be used in warp knits, seamless constructions, and body-mapped designs that were just not possible before.

The second trend is finer wool qualities. We are seeing much finer micron ranges than in the past, which improves comfort and softness. The third is natural blends, including combinations such as wool with silk or cashmere. These blends offer strength, comfort, and a different hand feel.

Stefan Krause: There’s also been an increasing acknowledgement of the inherent performance value of wool and wool blends. Wool and silk, for example, is a combination with a long history. It was already used in early high-altitude expeditions in the early days of alpinism. Seeing it return now, supported by modern production methods, shows how traditional materials can still meet current performance needs.

How will these themes all come together at the next Performance Days?

Birgit Gahlen: The wool-focused areas provide a clear overview of current developments, from fine fibers and blends to new structures and applications. It shows the full range of what wool can do today.

Stefan Krause: For visitors, it will come down to experiencing the comfort and performance firsthand. Wool fabrics are becoming finer and smoother, while technical performance continues to improve. Circularity and recycling are central discussion points, and the crossover between lifestyle and functional applications is very visible.

Birgit Gahlen: Overall, the show’s wool offering will reflect how wool is evolving, not by abandoning its natural properties, but by building on them through technology and design.