While other brands and retailers take their “eco-labels” off the market, Vaude goes in the opposite direction with its Green Shape label. Suston interviews Hilke Patzwall, in charge of this transition, on what it means in practice.

Green Shape began in 2010 as Vaude’s answer to a missing piece in the outdoor industry: a credible environmental standard designed specifically for textile products. At the time, Vaude saw no existing standard that could fully reflect the environmental requirements of its product portfolio, while specialty retailers were also looking for clearer ways to make more eco-friendly products visible to consumers.

What started as an internal tool has since been refined several times. Today, Green Shape covers all phases of the product life cycle, from design and material selection to manufacturing, use, and end of life. Its focus areas include certified recycled and renewable materials, repairability, ease of care, recyclability, material efficiency in production, and environmental requirements across the value chain.

At the same time, the EU has by step tightened its laws around sustainability communication. One clear objective has been to get rid of the myriad of self-developed “eco labels” on for instance the textile market. With the EmpCo directive now coming into effect, many such labels have been withdrawn from brands and retailers.

The long road towards officially approved label

Vaude decided to go in another direction. The goal is to establish Green Shape as a credible and ambitious environmental certification aligned with the EU’s stricter rules on environmental claims.

In early 2025, the Green Shape Association for the Promotion of Environmentally Friendly Clothing and Textile Products, or Green Shape e.V., was founded as a new independent body for the standard.

The association is now developing Green Shape into a third-party certification system for the broader textile and outdoor industries.

The Green Shape Standard is currently undergoing program assessment for accreditation in accordance with DIN EN ISO/IEC 17065 by the German Accreditation Body, DAkkS. The Green Shape logo has also been registered as an EU certification mark.

Suston asked Hilke Patzwall, Head of Corporate Sustainability at Vaude and voluntary representative of the Green Shape Association, what this transition means in practice.

Is the goal to make Green Shape an EU-approved label, similar to the EU Ecolabel?

The goal is to establish the Green Shape Standard as a credible, holistic, EmpCo-compliant third-party certification program for the apparel and outdoor industry. Brands with a valid Green Shape certification will be able to label their products with the new Green Shape logo.

The Green Shape label is registered as an EU guarantee mark with the European Union Intellectual Property Office, EUIPO.

The Green Shape Association owns the standard. It will not be state- or EU-owned, but will operate more like other privately owned third-party standards in the industry.

Can you share a timeline for the DAkkS review? And how certain are you that Green Shape will pass?

The evaluation process at DAkkS has been in progress since mid-2025. We have already answered their system report findings and are currently waiting for their next response.

We are confident the process will be completed before the EmpCo requirements apply this autumn. The DAkkS evaluation result will determine whether and when third-party certification bodies can acquire official DAkkS accreditation for the Green Shape Standard.

Even if this process is delayed, we will still start with third-party certifications, so interested brands can have their certification in place in time to market their winter 2026 products under Green Shape.

As with any new certification program, there is no 100 percent guarantee that everything will work out as planned. But this is what we are aiming for.

Green Shape considers existing environmental certifications (such as GOTS, GRS, Bluesign) in a brand´s supply chain. Can you explain what this means?

This means that a brand applying for certification can work with the best practice 3rd party systems in their supply chains as we all know them, as part of their supply chain due diligence and risk mitigation processes. The independent Green Shape certification body will check those processes for compliance with the specific Green Shape eco and due diligence system requirements

Who will audit Green Shape and conduct the independent audits?

One or two independent third-party certification bodies with textile industry expertise will offer audits for brands seeking Green Shape certification.

We are currently working on training materials for auditors and certification body staff, as well as cooperation and license contracts.

What will it cost for an outdoor brand to certify a collection or selected products? Is this already possible?

Brands will pay a small application fee to the Green Shape Association, as well as audit costs to the independent certification body.

After successful certification, brands will pay a license fee to the Green Shape Association. The exact amount will depend on their turnover. Details will be specified in the license contract.

Will Vaude continue using the Green Shape label on its products before the DAkkS review is complete?

Vaude plans to become the first certified Green Shape brand in 2026 and to label all Green Shape-compliant products in its winter 2026 collection with the Green Shape logo.

Are you leaving Vaude to work full time for the Green Shape Association?

No. My work for the Green Shape Association is voluntary and takes place alongside my role as Head of Corporate Sustainability at Vaude.

For transparency, during a transition period some development work contributed by Vaude staff is paid for by the Green Shape Association through a service provider contract with Vaude.