This fall, Performance Days turns its focus to bio-based materials. Jury member Johannes Fürst shares what came through the submissions and why bio-based fibers like regenerated cellulosics are increasingly seen as contenders to synthetics and cotton.

“Bio-Based Materials – From Fiber to Fabric” is this edition’s Focus Topic, with Part 1 concentrating on fibers and next-generation material developments. As a jury member with a close view of what is coming through, how significant is this shift for the industry right now?

With synthetic fibers continuing to grow – 69 percent of all fibers produced globally – bio-based materials offer a real opportunity to reduce our dependence on oil and its supply chains. That makes this shift significant, not only for sustainability but also for resilience. The bet is: lower fossil dependence, same performance.

From the jury’s perspective, what stands out is the range of feedstocks coming through and how close some solutions already are to industrial scale. That’s encouraging, but it also raises the bar for the rest of the value chain. The industry now has to learn to work with new types of feedstocks, understand their impact, and adapt sourcing strategies accordingly.

We also need to be transparent: most materials on the market today are only partly bio-based. Also bio-based polyester accounts for only 0.01 percent and bio-based polyamide for 0.5 percent produced globally in 2025. The challenge is moving from promising developments to reliable supply at volumes brands can actually build on.

The new Cellulose Forum launches alongside the Focus Topic, dedicated to plant-based cellulose materials. How does it fit into the bigger bio-based picture? And with curated materials required to contain at least 50 percent cellulose – from cotton, hemp and linen to lyocell, viscose and acetate – what did the jury actually see come through?

The Cellulose Forum is a dedicated space for functional fabrics made from natural fibers and man-made cellulosic fibers. In the past, these materials were spread across other forums. Now they have a focus area of their own, curated specifically for fabrics with a high cellulose content. Within the bigger bio-based picture, it shows visitors what is already possible today with plant-based fibers, both established and next-generation, in a performance context.

At the jury meeting, we were pleased to see that most submissions went well beyond the 50 percent threshold, and some were even 100 percent cellulose. What impressed us most were developments built on just one or two fibers that still delivered real performance, achieved through spinning, knitting, weaving or finishing techniques. That matters, because simpler fiber compositions are also easier to recycle. Alongside cotton, which had a strong presence, man-made cellulosic fibers were very well represented.

Cotton has long been the industry’s default. What is driving the current push toward alternative cellulose sources and regenerated cellulosics, and how do they compare with cotton – not only on sustainability, but on scalability and cost, as well as technical properties like moisture management, durability or stretch?

There’s definitely a shift toward cellulosic alternatives to cotton. It’s driven partly by supply chain issues, but also by the growing range of fibers and new technologies on the market. Application know-how has improved considerably over the past few years, to the point where man-made cellulosic fibers are now a real alternative even in categories like activewear, workwear and outerwear.

On cost, the picture depends on the product. For fabrics made with finer yarn counts, the newer fibers can be a genuine argument against cotton. Technically, they bring advantages such as good moisture management, softness and consistent fiber quality, while durability and stretch often still depend on smart construction or blending.

For visitors walking into the Cellulose Forum on October 13 and 14, what should they especially make time for? Is there a submission, concept or exhibitor you would point to as a must-see this edition?

I’d rather not single out individual submissions, but look out for the performance monomaterial fabrics. My personal don’t-miss is the expert talk program, especially “The Road to Fossil-Free Performance” on Tuesday at 12:30, followed by the presentation of the award winners and their products.