It sounds intuitive that natural fibers are better for the environment than synthetic fibers. But are they? As usual, the devil is in the detail when it comes to choosing materials. We take a closer look at the advantages and disadvantages of natural fibers.
When is clothing truly sustainable? In short, we don’t know. For it to be sustainable, it must be produced, worn and disposed of continuously without detrimental effects to people or planet. By this definition, modern clothing is far from sustainable.
But we can ask which clothing is “more sustainable” than others – clothing that is produced in a low-impact and ethical manner, which saves resources and observes fair working conditions, for starters. Then the clothing must be made to last as long as possible during the use stage. And finally, the materials should be such that they can be recycled at end of life.
When compared to synthetics, materials like hemp, linen cotton, cellulose fibers, or wool intuitively “sound” like the more sustainable choice given their natural origins. While sometimes they do indeed have advantages, they also have their drawbacks.
Time for a closer look at natural fibers along with their pros and cons.
What are the sustainability advantages of natural fibers?
Cotton, linen, hemp, silk, wool, and often even rayon made from responsibly sourced wood pulp are considered natural materials. These fibers are biodegradable, renewable, and often have a smaller environmental footprint compared to synthetics. Fibers shed in the wash are not harmful compared to microplastics, either.
Natural fibers often have other benefits, too – breathability is a typical feature in most natural fibers creating better temperature regulation and reducing perspiration. As they are moisture-wicking and transport sweat away, there might also be less skin irritation and odor compared to synthetics. Natural fibers can also be durable and age well, with a distinct look over time (think leather).
What are the drawbacks of natural fibers?
Compared to synthetics, textiles made from natural fibers might not be as lightweight and might lose their shape or fade. Some fibers might be delicate and need extra care in handling.
Natural also does not necessarily equate with “organic” or “sustainable” in the production of a garment. Conventional cotton, for example, is notorious for its water- and pesticide-intensive cultivation practices, straining water resources in often dry areas. Opting for organic cotton and other fibers such as hemp or bamboo can mitigate these issues.
A close look also pays off when dealing with textiles from bamboo or wood pulp such as rayon that use chemical processes in manufacturing. Standards and certifications such as Global Organic Textile Standard (GOTS) can help navigate different materials and components when doing research around sustainability.
Not all components and their origins in outdoor products are easy to trace in sustainability reports due to complex supply chains. So, when shopping for clothes and gear made from natural materials, one should still keep an eye out for ecological production that is non-pollutant, low on emissions, and uses rapidly renewable rather than resource-intensive materials.
How sustainable are animal fibers?
Animal fibers, such as leather, wool, fur, or feathers, often account for more carbon emissions compared to their plant-based alternatives. But when comparing conventional cotton to wool, there are also exceptions to this rule. According to the HIGG Material Sustainability Index Score, sheep wool has a better score from cradle to gate than conventional cotton. Organic and recycled cotton varieties outscore the wool, however.
Animal fibers also tend to have certain, beneficial performance characteristics such as their insulation or thermoregulating properties, keeping you warm when it’s cool and the other way around. Most of them are also odor-resistant and faster drying compared to cotton.
For performance, it also depends on the fiber in use: While wool keeps warm when wet, down does not but might be lighter or pack smaller – something to keep in mind when picking gear for specific purposes. Merino wool does not wrinkle as much and might need less washing compared to a cotton shirt, but it might be more delicate.
Wool, silk, or leather are more care-intensive compared to other fibers. Knowing how to take good care of which material will make your gear long-lasting and guarantee more adventures together.
However, animal-derived fibers have another set of ethical complexities associated with them, which must be brought into any discussion surrounding a product’s sustainability. Here, complying with animal welfare standards is always an important component.
Can leather be more sustainable?
Leather is a bit of an outlier due to its production. First of all, leather production is tightly interwoven with global meat production and all the environmental implications this implies. Leather might be seen as a better option compared to plastic-based alternatives, however, as it is a byproduct of said industry, and is both renewable, repairable, and improves in appearance with age. In terms of performance, it is breathable and durable – but might not be as light as synthetic materials.
Certifications by Oeko-Tex or the Leather Working Group help to show where leather comes from and how it was made. Of course, the industry has changed within the last 20 years, due to the restriction of harmful substances. As still around 80 percent of tanning is done with chrome, there are plant-based solutions out there to create leather in a more sustainable way. Leather also needs care to last, and it needs more resources in production.
What about innovative materials made from plant-based production leftovers?
Clothing made from biobased materials, such as a vegan leather, is still reasonably new to the game. So, how does it work?
Manufacturers use biotechnology and material sciences to take plant waste or biological material and transform it into usable textile solutions. The goal is often to minimize toxic chemicals and resources. Examples are vegan cashmere made from soy protein, vegan leather made from fruit skin, or bio-based plastics made from algae, which are used in clothing, sneakers, or even skis.
At the moment, there are still a couple of trade-offs, however: End-of-life and recycling solutions of those new materials have not been entirely worked through, for starters. This means that there might be no way to recycle the materials yet, and that they are not bio-degradable like other natural fibers. Some are also mixed with traditional or recycled polyesters, which make them non-recyclable at the moment.
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