Outdoor brands are beginning to swap fossil-based synthetics for biobased materials made from wood and other renewable sources. But are these new materials truly better for the planet? In this guide, we explore the promise and pitfalls of biosynthetic fibers and bioplastics in next-gen functional gear.

In the evolving landscape of outdoor gear, there is a slow but noticeable shift from fossil-based synthetics to biobased materials. The reasons for doing so are many, but one stands out in particular: Biobased materials offer a renewable alternative to using fossil-based resources. In this guide, Suston explores the realm of biosynthetic fibers and biobased plastics, highlighting their applications in outdoor gear and the environmental and ethical considerations that they entail.

Biosynthetic fibers: Bridging nature and performance

The European Committee for Standardization defines biobased products as any that are “wholly or partly made from biomass, such as plants, trees, or marine organisms. Biomass can include substances of biological origin, excluding materials embedded in geological formations or fossilized.”

The broadest interpretation of this definition would include traditional natural fibers like cotton or wool. In the context of outdoor apparel, however, the term “biobased” is often used to refer more specifically to Biosynthetics – a fusion of natural feedstocks and engineered performance. In other words, plant matter is processed mechanically or chemically to create a fiber with properties similar or identical to common fossil-based synthetics.

How cellulose-based fibers are made

One of the most well-known examples is the fiber Tencel Lyocell, produced from wood pulp sourced from FSC-certified and responsibly managed forests. Here, a closed-loop process first produces wood pulp, which is then chemically dissolved into a viscous solution, regenerated, and spun into fibers. Soft and smooth against skin, the resulting fiber is particularly sought-after by brands like Houdini and Tentree for their base layer and activewear collections.

Another innovator is Spinnova which similarly transforms wood pulp into textile fibers – only it does so without chemicals. Instead, it uses a mechanical process that grinds the wood into a cellulose gel, which can then be extruded into fibers. While still in the process of scaling up, brands such as The North Face, Bergans and Icebreaker have already explored Spinnova’s potential in their product lines.

The benefits and risks of biosynthetic fibers in outdoor gear

The primary advantage of biosynthetics lies in their renewable origins, and their potential to reduce various environmental impacts associated with fossil-based fiber production. For example, both Spinnova and Tencel Lyocell have relatively low carbon footprints. They are also recyclable and biodegradable – unless blended with non-biodegradable fibers or treated with non-degradable finishes or dies.

However, the adoption of biosynthetic fibers is not without challenges – and not all biosynthetic fibers are created equal. Modal and lyocell are both biobased, for example, but generically produced fibers commonly found in apparel often have extremely high environmental impacts – including heavy use of chemicals and, not least, deforestation. Here, the textile watchdog Canopy has resources to promote more forest-friendly sourcing.

Biobased plastics: Redefining “plastic is fantastic”

As with biosynthetic fibers, biobased plastics are fully or partially derived from plant-based sources such as corn, sugarcane, or castor beans, and offer an alternative to traditional petroleum-based plastics. In outdoor gear, these materials are utilized in products ranging from utensils to equipment components to packaging.

Light My Fire, a Swedish brand known for its durable and portable outdoor cooking and dining gear, is transitioning to biobased plastics across its product line. This shift is made possible through the mass balance approach – a system where biobased (e.g. corn starch) and fossil-based feedstocks are mixed during production, but the renewable share is carefully tracked and allocated to specific products through a certified accounting method.

Advantages and challenges of biobased plastics in gear design

Similarly, Silva’s Terra Scout H headlamp incorporates Revo material, a blend of recycled plastic and hemp fibers. This creates what the company claims to be the world’s first headlamp made almost entirely from bio-based and recycled materials – cutting the product’s carbon footprint by up to 90% compared to conventional plastics.

Sympatex, meanwhile, has turned to agricultural waste – which does not compete with the food chain – to produce a waterproof membrane that is 25% biobased. This results in 12% lower CO₂ emissions per kilogram of polymer compared to fossil-based alternatives. The company plans to progressively increase the share of renewable raw materials as an integral part of the strategy to meet its climate targets.

How to navigate the biobased jungle?

These examples demonstrate how biobased plastics can easily be integrated into functional outdoor equipment. But despite these advancements, biobased plastics present certain issues that must be considered on a case-by-case basis. Not all are biodegradable, and their recyclability varies, potentially complicating waste management at end-of-life. Moreover, the cultivation of feedstocks for bioplastics must be balanced against food production and land use concerns to avoid unintended environmental and social impacts.

Several certification schemes are in place to validate the amount of biobased material in a product, such as the USDA Certified Biobased Product and OK Biobased. But at the time of writing, there is no widely used label that ensures bioplastics are responsibly sourced. For this reason, it is important to check that the feedstocks themselves have been validated by a legitimite third-party certifier.

The integration of biosynthetic fibers and biobased plastics into outdoor gear marks a proactive effort to reduce reliance on fossil fuels, particularly in product applications where synthetic performance is still necessary. However, as with many emerging technologies, the biobased materials landscape remains largely unregulated and marked by inconsistent claims.

This makes it essential for consumers not to be swayed by unqualified marketing language or the mere presence of a “biobased” label. For producers, it is equally important that implementation is grounded in robust life cycle assessments and rigorous sourcing standards, ensuring that the shift toward biobased alternatives results in measurable and verifiable environmental benefits.