Textile-to-textile recycling has yet to scale, despite years of investment and innovation. Adam Gardiner, Recycled Lead at Textile Exchange, outlines what is holding it back – and how the outdoor industry could play a key role in unlocking its next phase.

Let’s start with the big picture. Where does textile recycling actually sit within a circular system today?

Textile-to-textile recycling is important, but it’s just one part of a broader materials strategy.

A holistic approach is key.

Within the outdoor industry and the wider sector, for example, there are several preferable options before an end-of-life option. Fortunately, brands are increasingly adopting this mindset – focusing on repair, designing for longevity, and ensuring products are fit for purpose. If we take the traditional waste hierarchy approach, an end-of-life option like recycling should really be the final option for garments.

That said, given the current scale of production across both the fashion industry and the outdoor sector, recycling is the only viable long-term solution when garments reach end-of-life. So, it is a necessary part of the system. But looking at production data – such as in our annual Materials Market Report – the recycling gap remains significant.

The share of recycled materials is still small compared to virgin, fossil-derived feedstocks. While recycling volumes have grown in absolute terms over the past five years, their market share, particularly for polyester, has largely plateaued.

What is holding things back right now?

The encouraging part is that technology is no longer the main barrier. A number of viable solutions are already on the market. Even so, the industry remains in a holding pattern, with companies hesitant to plan beyond short-term cycles. Recycling infrastructure requires long-term investment – typically three to five years to reach commercial scale – so recyclers need clear demand signals from brands committing to textile-to-textile materials.

At the same time, price continues to limit adoption. Recycled materials are often more expensive than virgin alternatives, as preparing feedstock adds complexity and cost, making it harder to compete.

Beyond these economic barriers, technical challenges still play a role. Blended fibres reduce efficiency, though some common blends are becoming more manageable. Similarly, legacy chemicals remain a challenge. But recycling systems can increasingly filter out substances like PFAS and meet certification requirements.

Finally, these challenges are compounded by limitations in collection and sorting. Post-consumer systems remain underdeveloped, with many recyclers still relying on post-industrial waste. In Europe, for example, financial pressure on collectors and sorters has slowed progress. Ultimately, the economics of collection and sorting need to be rebalanced.

What is Textile Exchange doing in response to these challenges – and are there any signals you are seeing that things are starting to move in the right direction?

Our primary goal at Textile Exchange is to support the transition away from fossil-derived materials, with recycled inputs – especially textile-to-textile – playing a central role. We do this through research, stakeholder engagement, and standards such as the Global Recycled Standard, which influence practices across the supply chain. We are also moving toward a unified framework, “Materials Matter,” to align expectations on environmental and social performance.

There are signs of progress, but scaling still depends on long-term commitment and coordination across regions.

In China, for example, I recently visited a new recycling facility that moved from early construction to near completion within a year. More broadly, there are indications that recycled fiber is becoming a strategic priority, supported by long-term planning and investment in domestic capacity. This creates precisely the confidence to scale large facilities needed, and suggests that, under the right conditions, rapid development is possible.

What should brands and designers do now – and what should they be preparing for next?

Commit to sourcing recycled materials. Performance is no longer a barrier – recycled fibers can match virgin materials. What matters now is long-term commitment rather than seasonal decisions. Because recycling infrastructure takes years to scale, brands need to send clear demand signals early.

Current projections suggest that by 2030, textile-to-textile recycling capacity could reach 3–5 million tonnes. While this represents significant growth, it will still fall short of overall demand, underscoring the need for both commitment and patience during the transition.

At the same time, collaboration will be essential. This is particularly important for smaller brands that face minimum order constraints. Pre-competitive initiatives, such as fiber clubs, allow multiple brands to access new materials without requiring large individual volumes.

Fortunately, the outdoor industry already has a strong culture for this kind of collaboration. It can therefore play a critical role in scaling solutions if it chooses to work together.

Image: Luisa Bravo | Textile Exchange